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GOING BACK IN TIME ABOARD THE ANGELIQUE
by Bill Vanderford
Though I am prone to tasting life and adventure others consider crazy and
dangerous, climbing nearly a hundred feet up into the windy rigging of a
sailing ship at sea had never been in my plans. Nevertheless, even without
a safety net or parachute, the breathtaking view of Maine’s Penobscot Bay
from the swaying mast of the Angelique is worth the physical effort
and risk!
 Opportunity
is a door I always keep open, and when I was invited to participate in a
week-long cruise aboard a 100 foot windjammer through the islands and
rugged coast of Maine...I jumped at the chance! The boat is the
Angelique that is owned and operated by Captain Mike McHenry and his
wife Lynne out of Camden, Maine. This immaculate vessel is just one of
more than a dozen historic windjammers who are members of the Maine
Windjammers Association. Most of these vessels are schooners that date
back as far as the late 1800s, but Angelique is the only ketch and was
built in 1980 especially for the modern windjamming trade. Though much
larger, she is fashioned after a type of English fishing trawler found in
the North Sea during the 1880s. Her sails are notably red in color, which
was also common during that period because of the process. They were made
from cotton canvas and treated with tallow, tannic acid, and red ocher to
make them more resistant to mildew.
 Angelique
can accommodate 31 passengers and a crew of 7 on voyages lasting more than
a week. She is classically exquisite to the eye, and everything onboard
her is functionally perfect for sailing through the intricate bays,
inlets, and islands of the diverse and beautiful coast of Maine.
 Photographers
find the passing scenery and the active life aboard a windjammer to be a
constantly changing series of unique opportunities. Others discover that
the gentle swaying and quietness of a sailing ship at sea can be a respite
from the madness of urban life. Therefore, each passenger seems to find
his or her own interest that might include reading, knitting, sleeping on
deck, taking hundreds of pictures, or becoming part of the working crew
pulling lines and setting sails. If one becomes deeply curious about the
technical aspects of sailing, Captain McHenry readily explains navigation
practices and allows anyone to try a turn at the helm.
 Trips
on the Angelique always begin in Camden, Maine, which is a quaint
New England fishing village that has not been spoiled by the passing of
time. This charming town seems to wrap its arms around a protected harbor
along Penobscot Bay and has proven to be THE favorite home for many of the
old windjammers. Its picturesque waterfront is lined with sailing vessels,
eclectic shops, restaurants with a view of the harbor and the rolling
brook that pours into the bay, and lush green hills above the village.
Therefore, during the afternoon before each trip, windjammer captains
encourage visitors to explore Camden before spending their first night
aboard ship.
 With
the morning tide rising and a hearty New England breakfast consumed, the
activity of the crew increases tremendously and the anticipation of going
to sea permeates the salty air with raw excitement. The Captain barks out
commands, and the Angelique slides deftly through the maze of boats
towards the open sea and freedom from all the modern madness. The larger
sails are hoisted, and the crew clamors through the high rigging to set
the jibs for a dash across the openness beyond Camden Harbor and into
another time and space. No course is ever pre-planned on a Maine
windjammer...only the wind will dictate the exact path for the
Angelique to follow and where it will rest at anchor each night. All
electronic equipment is totally “verboten” except for dire emergencies,
and children under 12 are discouraged...however, some dogs are allowed.
 All
meals, including breads and desserts, are made onboard from scratch with
fresh ingredients that were purchased from local Maine farms. Except for
an afternoon snack around 4 pm and morning tea at 7 am, meals are promptly
signaled by the ship’s bell at 8 am, 12 noon, and 6 pm. The highlight of
each cruise, however, is an evening spent on some uninhabited island where
everyone is treated to the unique sights, smells, and sounds of a
traditional New England “Down East” lobsterbake! It’s hard to beat the
taste of fresh-caught lobster cooked in ocean water with live seaweeds in
a gorgeous setting just before a colorful sunset. The festive atmosphere
is enlivened by the only jug of wine that is offered during the week of
sailing.
 Time
aboard a Maine windjammer is spent taking in the clean salt air, seeing a
kaleidoscope of changing scenery, enjoying the camaraderie of the crew,
captain, and other passengers, and discovering the romance of sailing that
has been so much a part of American history. I will always remember the
legendary lighthouses, the island towns of North Haven, Islesboro, and Bar
Harbor, and names like Jericho Bay, Casgo Passage, Frenchman Bay,
Cranberry Island, or Calderwood Island. Nevertheless, it is the red sails
of the Angelique, the stories of Captain Mike McHenry, and the
unforgettable feeling of freedom at sea under huge sails off the rugged
coast of Maine that will be forever etched in my memory!
Bill Vanderford has won numerous awards for his writing
and photography, and has been inducted into the National Freshwater
Fishing Hall of Fame as a Legendary Guide. He can be reached at
770-289-1543, at
JFish51@aol.com, or at his web site: http://www.fishinglanier.com
Maine Windjammer Association
www.sailmainecoast.com
(1-800-807-9463)
Angelique - Captain Mike McHenry
windjam@sailangelique.com
(1-800-282-9989) |
